15 September, 2011

Pictures of the new Petzl Nomic

Hey! Spoke to a Petzl guy at the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc in Chamonix almost a month ago about the new Nomics, according to him they were to be released in October so it was a nice surprise when a friend in Scotland texted me last week and told me that Needlesports had just received some. Mailed them right away and the next day a pair were heading for Sweden!

Decided to take some pictures of Petzl's solution to the breaking pommels from last year(more about that issue on ColdThistle)






What Petzl have done is to mill a slot for a small piece of stainless, Cr-Mo or some other "harder" metall into the soft alumnium. They also increased the size of the thooth quite a bit. Should definately be strong enough even for the 100kg+ drytooling brutes!

Hopefully I'll get a chance to try them out on rock in the middle of next week and on ice sometime during the next month! Need to pimp them out aswell with some tape, lightweight hammers from ColdThistle tools and reliable leashes!

Peace!
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9 comments:

  1. Leashes?! or umbilicals?

    How come a coldthistle hammer rather than a petzl one?

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  2. umbilicals ofcourse, were a bit tired last night :)

    Biggest reason for the coldthistle hammers is the swing, tried a pair of Nomics last year with the Petzl hammers and they definately change the balance. Haven't tried the coldthistle ones but since they are lighter hopefully they'll give a better swing :)

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  3. The CT hammmers are hardly noticable in use compared to Petzl's version. If you are needing a hammer and all the balance a Nomic offers you won't be dissappointed. Thanks for the link ;)

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  4. Thanks for posting the photos! Cold thistle hammers are better all around, much better swing and works super wellnon the new quark as well. The Petzl hammer places too much weight behind the shaft in my opinion. Seems like the Petzl hammer was designed with then quark and it just happened to fin on the nomic.

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  5. Hey, is the hole for the keeper cord slightly bigger or is the bigger chamfer just playing with me eyes!

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  6. Thanks Edvin. I got my new nomics yesterday. Have to say I'm not 100% convinced of the "fix" - I just had a little hang from the garage roof and moved the grip rest once and the inlaid teeth already look a little dog eared :( Surely it can only be cosmetic...

    Do you attach your umbilcals to cord through the small hole under the grip rest?

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  7. Harri: I measured the hole and it's 5.7mm, not sure if that's bigger than the older version since I don't have any I can measure.

    Anyway, I can get a 5.5mm dyneema cord through with no problems and 6mm cord if I pull it through with a plier. But with either of those options you will have to grind some material of the pommel. Max size if you don't want to modify the pommel is 4mm.

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  8. a little lost: Doesn't sound good, no real climbing yet on mine, just a quick training session on a nearby childrens playground and they still look fine.

    I suspect that Petzl have really tested this out to avoid a big fiasco but you never know :( I will keep an eye on mine anyway

    Regarding the umbilicals, I'm not sure yet. In the past I have used 5mm cord larksfooted to the icetool and to avoid it tangling I clip it behind the cheststrap on my backpack. That would definately work on the Nomics with a short loop of 5.5mm dyneema through the small clip in hole but I'm also tryingout another option with 8mm flat dyneema webbing larksfooted through the bigger clip-in hole.

    I'll write another blog entry with some pics but I want more time with the axes first, probably gonna grind some rubber of the handles aswell and make a couple of other smaller modifications.

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  9. Childrens playground? Lunatic...

    Maybe your all too fat for the axes.

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